Hawaiian Surfing: Traditions from the Past
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512pp. May 2011
Hawaiian Surfing: Traditions from the Past
Author: Clark, John R. K.;
2012 Ka Palapala Po‘okela Honorable Mentions for Excellence in Text or Reference and Excellence in Hawaiian Culture

Hawaiian Surfing is a history of the traditional sport narrated primarily by native Hawaiians who wrote for the Hawaiian-language newspapers of the 1800s. An introductory section covers traditional surfing, including descriptions of the six Hawaiian surf-riding sports (surfing, bodysurfing, canoe surfing, body boarding, skimming, and river surfing). This is followed by an exhaustive Hawaiian-English dictionary of surfing terms and references from Hawaiian-language publications and a special section of Waikiki place names related to traditional surfing. The information in each of these sections is supported by passages in Hawaiian, followed by English translations. The work concludes with a glossary of English-Hawaiian surfing terms and an index of proper names, place names, and surf spots.

17 illus.

“[A] rad, bitchin’ book.” —Honolulu Weekly (2 November 2011); read the full review at http://honoluluweekly.com/story-continued/2011/11/hawaiian-surfing-dude-is-there-any-other-kind/

“Meticulously researched and compiled, Hawaiian Surfing is a treasure of Hawaiian primary resources detailing the tradition of surfing in Hawaiʻi. A book like this can easily be enjoyed by not only surfers and history buffs, but by the general public in Hawaiʻi at large. It’s one of those reference books like Place Names of Hawaiʻi, The Hawaiian Dictionary, or yes, Pidgin to da Max, that could easily find a generous place on anyone’s bookshelf. Hawaiian Surfing is an important tool to help those of us who don’t understand the language, and maybe even some of us who do, to have a greater understanding of not only surfing and its roots, but of Hawaiian language, traditions, and culture.” —Hawai‘i Book Blog (16 July 2011); read the full review at http://www.hawaiibookblog.com/articles/book-review-hawaiian-surfing-traditions-from-the-past/

“John Clark, a Hawaiian surfer, lifeguard, firefighter, and historian, has studied Hawaiian, read Hawaiian sources on surfing, and built up a massive file of these texts for analysis and translation. More recently, he has tapped into the growing online database of Hawaiian-language articles on native history and culture that were published from the 1830s to the 1940s. By searching out practically every known reference to Hawaiian surfing, Clark has produced an amazing study of the sport, one that far surpasses any previous work. Furthermore, because he has included so much rich source material here, presented in both Hawaiian and English translation, this compilation will long serve as a treasury of traditional surfing lore—one that allows readers to delve deep and come up with their own understanding of Hawaiian surfing.” —Ben Finney, emeritus professor of anthropology, University of Hawai‘i
Author: Clark, John R. K.;
John R. K. Clark, a former lifeguard and retired deputy fire chief of the Honolulu Fire Department, is the author of numerous books on Hawai‘i’s beaches and ocean lore published by University of Hawai‘i Press: Hawai‘i Place Names: Shores, Beaches, Surf Sites; Guardian of the Sea: Jizo in Hawai‘i; Beaches of O‘ahu (Revised Edition); Hawai‘i’s Best Beaches; Beaches of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau; The Beaches of Maui County; and Beaches of the Big Island.
Read the introduction (PDF).
Acknowledgments
Introduction

1. Traditional Hawaiian Surfing
2. Traditional Hawaiian Surf Sports
He‘e Nalu
Board Surfing
Types of surfboards
Surfboard construction
Surfing skills and styles
Surfboards as paddleboards
Surfing chants and rituals
Sensuous surf
Surfwear
Surfing contests
Sharks in the surf
Gods and surfing
Surfers of different nationalities
Pakaka Nalu
Outrigger Canoe Surfing
Kaha Nalu
Bodysurfing
Pae Po‘o
Bodyboarding
He‘e One
Sand Sliding
He‘e Pu‘e Wai
River Surfing
3. Traditional Surf Sites
Hawai‘i
Maui
Moloka‘i
Lana‘i
Kaho‘olawe
O‘ahu
Kaua‘i
Ni‘ihau

Hawaiian-English Dictionary of Surfing Terms
Waikiki Place Names Related to Surfing
English-Hawaiian Surfing Terms
References
Index



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