Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it--just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
For sale only in the U.S., its dependencies, Canada, and Mexico
A Latitude 20 Book
Praise for the first edition:
"One of the most sophisticated surfing books ever produced ... a must for any surfer." --Surfer's Journal
"Jam-packed with helpful graphs, diagrams, photographs and mathematical equations, along with a glossary-index" --Longboard Magazine, February 2005
"If you're interested in catching more well-shaped waves at the most optimal time, Surf Science is a must read." --Eastern Surf, October 2004
Author: Butt, Tony; Russell, Paul; Grigg, Rick;Tony Butt
is a big-wave specialist based in the Basque Country and postdoctoral research fellow at the University of Plymouth, England. He is a regular contributor to European surfing magazines and runs a wave prediction website (www.swellforecast.com
). Paul Russell
was twice European Surfing Champion and is now a reader in coastal dynamics at the School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences, University of Plymouth. Rick Grigg,
who pioneered big-wave surfing on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, is a professor of oceanography at the University of Hawaii.